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Sour beers: Hongkongers tap into latest craft beer trend

They might occupy just a small niche in the craft brewing market, but their complex and intriguing flavours are winning over the city's connoisseurs

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Young Master Ales' Tai Sui beer is a fine example of a sour brew.
Christopher DeWolf

Rohit Dugar is standing in front of a fermentation tank at his Ap Lei Chau brewery, Young Master Ales, when he opens a valve and fills a small glass with amber liquid. He takes a sip.

"I think it needs more salt."

That's not something you expect to hear about a beer, but Dugar is not making an ordinary brew. His Cha Chaan Teng Gose is based on a centuries-old German style of beer whose tart and slightly salty flavours bear some resemblance to lemonade. Young Master's version includes salted lime, a nod to the classic haam ling chut (salted lime with 7 Up), a staple of Hong Kong-style cafes.

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Sour beers have found many advocates in Hong Kong, where the flavours are already familiar from local cuisine.
Sour beers have found many advocates in Hong Kong, where the flavours are already familiar from local cuisine.

Dugar and his master brewer, Ulrich Altbauer, first made the the gose as a one-off experiment earlier this year. But it proved so popular over the summer that they recently brewed a second batch for autumn. It will be one of the 551 beers available at this year's Beertopia craft beer festival, on October 9 and 10 at the Central harbourfront.

Done well, it's one of the most intriguing flavours out there; done poorly, it will make you want to throw out the entire beer
Jeff Boda, Hop Leaf

The gose won't be alone in the festival's sour beer category. Although they represent just a fraction of the overall craft beer market, sours are a growing niche, beloved by beer geeks for their complex and surprising range of flavours that are not usually associated with the brew.

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