Restaurant review: Porterhouse by Laris in Lan Kwai Fong
With a big range of steaks, tasting menus for the curious, and great attention to detail, this relative newcomer has a lot going for it
Price: HK$630 without drinks or the service charge
Ambience: it’s an opulent but comfortable space, with high ceilings and great attention to detail. For the most part, service was attentive, even before I was recognised halfway through the meal.
Recommended dishes: there’s plenty of choice for beef lovers, steaks are served on and off the bone, with the latter also including grass-fed and Japanese wagyu. My guest’s Cape Grim Tasmanian grass-fed sirloin (HK$328 for 14 ounces) was cooked to a perfect medium, and had a firmer texture than corn-fed meat. He cleared his plate. I immediately spotted one of my favourite cuts – the skirt steak (HK$298 for 12 ounces), which isn’t easy to find on Hong Kong menus. It was fantastic – slightly chewy, as expected, and with an intense, beefy flavour. The truffle butter (HK$38) was a nice topping for both steaks, as was the delicious honey-glazed double smoked bacon (HK$148).
Pros: the wine list is excellent with some unusual offerings. We especially appreciated the extensive and varied by-the-glass selection.
Cons: the seared diver scallops with corn purée, sesame and sweet ponzu sauce (HK$168) had good flavours and the scallops were sweet and tender, but the dish needed something crunchy to provide textural interest. The rum baba with Myer’s rum sauce (HK$88) hadn’t been soaked sufficiently, so the sponge cake was too firm.
What else? Dinner also offers a three-course tasting menu (HK$558) and seven-course tasting menu (HK$888, or HK$1,388 with a wine pairing).
7/F California Tower, 32 D’Aguilar Street, Lan Kwai Fong, tel: 2522 6366
Open: noon-2.30pm (Saturday and Sunday 11am-3.30pm), 6pm-10.30pm