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Pacific saury sashimi. Photo: David Wong

Restaurant review: URA serves delicious izakaya food in chic, cool surroundings

Sheung Wan restaurant delivers fantastic izakaya

When it comes to izakaya, I tend to associate lack of decor with good food, and vice versa. URA Japanese Delicacy proves me wrong: it is possible to have delicious izakaya food in chic, cool surroundings.

A seasonal speciality, Pacific saury sashimi (HK$148) had great presentation, and the thick pieces of rich, oily fish were fresh and meaty. Mie prefecture homemade tofu (HK$78) was soft and subtle and came in three cups: one with soy sauce and spring onion, another with sesame and shredded nori, and the last one with truffle paste, Parma ham and olive oil.

Hokkaido crab paste toast. Photo: David Wong

The appearance of Hokkaido crab paste toast (HK$148) is off-putting: the greenish-brown paste looks like something you wouldn't choose to eat. Known as kani miso, the crab paste - served warm in a crab shell accompanied by thick pieces of soft toast - was rich, smooth and intense. Kagoshima pork salad (H$128) had great ingredients: thin slices of tender, fatty pork, a good selection of vegetables, and two delicious sauces - one with sesame paste, and a light, peppery vinegar sauce.

Saga prefecture glutinous rice chicken skewer. Photo: David Wong

Miyazaki-style grilled chicken (HK$88) had moist boneless meat that would have been better with more char. Saga prefecture glutinous rice chicken skewer (HK$78 for two) was a variation on tsukune (chicken meatball) that was surprisingly light - the rice compressed just enough so the ingredients (which included the obligatory chicken cartilage) stayed together.

Thick cut Hokkaido Genghis Khan grilled lamb (HK$198) was the only disappointing dish. Unevenly cut pieces of lamb were served raw on a plate, and the waiter placed a heated iron platter on the table so we could grill the meat. It was boring after a few pieces and we left about half of the meat uneaten. This is when the meal - already an enjoyable one - became even better. When the waiter brought the bill, there wasn't a charge for the lamb dish. We hadn't complained about it, but the waiter said he noticed we didn't finish it, so asked the manager to take it off the cheque.

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