Restaurant review: Momojein in Wan Chai - modern Korean
First courses need work but main dishes and desserts shine in this stylish outlet
Cuisine: modern Korean
Price: about HK$280 without drinks or the service charge
Ambience: nice, stylish décor. We had seats in a comfortable booth.
Pros: the menu is brief and the dishes sound tempting. Presentation of the food is creative.
Cons: kalbi hotteok (“juicy hand-crafted beef wrapped inside a house-made chewy crêpe bun that is then pan-seared for the ultimate crispiness”, HK$82) was juicy but too sweet and the sauce served alongside it wasn’t necessary.
Flowered chives pancake (HK$108) was unevenly cooked – about a third of it had a crisp exterior but the rest was too pale and doughy, and the sauce it was served with had hardly any flavour. Samgyetang (HK$79) was a mixed lot: the broth didn’t taste much of either chicken or ginseng, but the chicken roulade with glutinous rice was moist, tender and creative. Spicy chicken noodles (HK$130) was dull: the soup was bland, despite the thick layer of chilli oil floating on top, and the chicken meat was stringy.
Recommended dishes: country-fried chicken (HK$230) had been fried whole before being cut into pieces. The thin batter was crisp and light and the chicken meat was moist, but what elevated the dish was the crunchy fried lotus chips.
The best main course was the whole kalbi with coriander salad (HK$340). The meat was well marinated and cooked, and the salad – which also contained carrots and lots of sesame seeds – was refreshing.
My favourite dish of the night was dessert of hotteok and ice cream (HK$85). This time, the crepe was wrapped around a hot, sweet, nutty filling before being topped with ice cream and served with caramelised banana slices.
What else? Executive chef Lim Hee Won is – according to the press release – a “celebrity chef” in South Korea.
Momojein 23/F QRE Plaza, 202 Queen’s Road East, Wan Chai, tel: 2789 1949