Bar review: Moonshine and the Po’Boys in Wan Chai struggles to keep up with its own success
Busy bar but organisation needs overhauling to capitalise
The vibe:“Southern Comfort Food and Bourbon Bar”, Moonshine and The Po’Boys occupies one end of tiny, pedestrian-only Sun Street, one of the more atmospheric corners of our city. There’s an imaginative Louisiana-inspired décor, a bustling open kitchen and live music (although it’s not New Orleans jazz) from a singer/guitarist perched dizzily in a caged enclosure on the first floor. Soon after opening, the place is packed and booking is essential – if you can’t get in there’s space to drink outside (although, this being Hong Kong, there are no tables or chairs and a sign reminds everyone to keep the noise down after 10pm).
The drinks: signature cocktails are mostly bourbon- or rye-based and run from sweet to very sweet (two even include ice cream). We tried four (HK$120 each).
The Barrel Aged Boulevardier (rye whiskey, Campari, Dom Benedictine) and Spicy Old Fashioned (Jim Beam, spicy bitter, sugar) tasted almost identical except that one had a bitter aftertaste, the other a spicy one. The Chai Tea Cajun Julep (Jim Beam, mint, chai tea, Absolut Kurant, syrup) was refreshing, if light, with a nice hint of blackcurrant. The Thyme & Apple (vodka, thyme syrup, green apple schnapps, sweet & sour) was heavy on the thyme and somewhat cloying.
None of the drinks were sufficiently balanced or complex and when we asked for a simple Margarita we were told they couldn’t do it if it wasn’t on the signature list. It all left us feeling that more expertise is needed behind the bar – a pity since it stocks some real gems. My companion had a birthday dram of 60-year-old Lagavulin single malt (HK$150) which was exquisite despite being served in a cracked glass. While this was promptly replaced it added to the feeling that the place is struggling to keep up with its own success.