Restaurant review: Twenty Six by Liberty in Central is innovative if sometimes overcomplicated
Eclectic mixture of ingredients is great – when it works
When I read through my notes for the meal at Twenty Six by Liberty, some of the dishes sound like a shopping list of disparate ingredients. Lots of them. Sometimes way too much. The chef is talented, but as some of the dishes show, the food would be better if he reined in his creativity.
When it works, it’s great. An organic egg yolk with brown butter, corn purée and Japanese sea urchin was delicious, while oysters – two per person, one topped with frozen oyster juice and thinly sliced green apple, the other with limequat, smoked olive oil and chilli powder, were beautiful and refreshing.
Mashed avocado with white peach purée, salmon roe, curry powder and viola flowers sounds like a really weird mix, but it was surprisingly enjoyable, and we would have liked a second helping of the smoked potato with sour cream, Iranian caviar and Spanish mackerel.
