Restaurant review: Fish School offers delicious lessons in taste and texture
The wild eel is pure comfort food, salt baked mullet was memorably moist, and the starters were a conversation stopper. David Lai and Yenn Wong’s Sai Ying Pun venture is a must-try
Why do appetisers often seem to taste better than the mains? We pondered that oft-asked question at Fish School, David Lai and Yenn Wong’s must-try restaurant in Sai Ying Pun. Food wasn’t the only thing on which we based our conclusions.
From the 16 “Of the Moment” dishes created with seasonal ingredients, we chose four with difficulty – they all sounded tempting. All were wonderful.
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The monkfish liver and foie gras presse (HK$165) stopped the conversation because of its unexpected delicateness, complemented by a hint of tangerine peel and roselle purée sweetness. Also surprising was the absence of bitterness.
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Our favourite, however, was the mantis shrimp popcorn (HK$175), which creatively interpreted a classic Cantonese dish. Well battered and crunchy, it was enhanced by strong, salty cured duck yolk.
So why did the starters score more points? Possibly because the countdown had been slow to start, fast to finish.
Fish School, 100 Third St, Sai Ying Pun, tel: 2361 2966. About HK$500 without drinks. There’s no service charge