Hong Kong drinkers visiting Macau now spoilt for choice of world wines

Macau’s wine scene has been shaped by centuries of Portuguese culture and tradition. When Portuguese sailors first dropped anchor in the enclave, no doubt there were a few oak barrels on board. Today, Macau is a different beast – less “yo ho ho and a bottle of rum”, more ooh-ahh and a bottle of red. In any case, Macau’s dual Sino-Portuguese heritage makes it one of the few Asian nations with an established Eurocentric wine culture.

Weekend pilgrimages to Macau are a regular jaunt for many Hongkongers who, for decades, have escaped the hustle and bustle of our vast metropolis to the quieter shores of Coloane’s rustic fishing village. Hongkongers are Macau’s second largest group of visitors (after mainland Chinese), and its biggest drinkers. No mini-break to Macau is complete without a plate of its famous clams or roast suckling pig. Sundays spent drowning hangovers in a cocktail of garlic, olive oil and inexpensive Portuguese wine will always hold a special place in our hearts.

More recently, however, Macau’s glitzy transformation has given rise to an enviable chef culture. The city is awash with deluxe restaurants and foreign wine labels. In a city with this many world-class restaurants, high-quality wine is as easy to find as the ubiquitous egg tarts and almond biscuits. Portuguese wine is still abundant; its producers enjoy a massive hometown advantage here. Nowhere else in Asia can you find such a broad range of prized Portuguese reds and crisp acidic vinho verde, but these days French ranks first overall in volume and value.

The baccarat boom responsible for Macau’s recent prosperity is a double-edged sword, though. Intoxicated by the flow of cash from ultra rich gamblers, casino tycoons built boast-worthy cellars and lured world-class chefs to hang their Michelin-star hopes on. The cellars and restaurants remain, but big-spending high rollers have all but disappeared, caught up in Xi Jinping’s austerity measures. The local wine scene is gradually shifting to a more sustainable base of locals, expatriates and tourists who come to stay, play and dine.

Wine sales at the luxurious Four Seasons Hotel Macao have moved away from big brand names to a mixed bag of high-quality bottles. The hotel’s sommelier, Hedi Lao, says its Michelin two-star restaurant Zi Yat Heen now serves a greater variety of wines to more open-minded, less label-conscious drinkers – many of whom are from Hong Kong and Macau. She says the great VIP exodus is a period of stabilisation.

“The Four Seasons no longer sells Lafite and Margaux every night,” she told an audience at the recent Wine in China conference in Hong Kong. “Among the empty bottles, I see wines from Argentina, Australia and Spain.”