Restaurant review: Bindaas Bar + Kitchen, Central adds spice to life
An interesting take on modern India, with a winning pizza-naan fusion that is more than a gimmick
Cuisine: modern Indian street food
Price: about HK$390 without drinks or the service charge
Ambience: lively and crowded. Tables are very close together.
Pros: the servers were friendly and the dishes were served at a good pace, rather than all at once.
Cons: some of the flavours seemed toned down. We liked the taste of the fish tawa fry (HK$128) but the fish was overcooked. Mutton shami kebab (HK$148) was nice and meaty, but needed a bit more seasoning, and the patties would have been better if they’d been browned more. The prawn and coconut milk curry (HK$168) was served after the vindaloo (see below) and seemed bland in comparison, tasting just of coconut milk and a bit of turmeric.
Recommended dishes: sev puri (HK$68) was a good, light start to the meal, with its crunchy crackers and noodles, along with potato, chickpeas and chutneys. Beef chilli stir fry “naanza” (a combination of “naan” and “pizza”, HK$118) sounds gimmicky, but it worked: the naan was nice and crusty and the toppings were cohesive. Our favourite dish of the night was the plantain and elephant yam patties
(HK$98). It wasn’t the prettiest presentation, but as with many other Indian vegetarian dishes, it was so flavourful and satisfying we didn’t mind that it didn’t have meat.
Pork vindaloo (HK$168) wasn’t nearly as spicy as we expected it to be (we weren’t asked to specify the heat level, although the menu says it can be made “as spicy as you can handle!”). Still, the spices were well balanced, and the meat was tender, and it went well with the malabari lacha paratha (HK$28), which was light and well toasted. Paan kulfi cubes (HK$78) were palate-cleansing and not too sweet.
What else? There’s an extensive drinks list, which includes some interesting cocktails.
Bindaas Bar + Kitchen, 33 Aberdeen Street, Central. Tel: 2447 9998