Recommended dishes: raw marinated tomalley crab (HK$238) had bright flavours, although it should have been marinated longer, which would have improved the texture of the shellfish. The Thai style fish and pomelo salad (HK$218) was well priced. Instead of the fillets we expected, it was a whole fish that had been fried so it was moist and slightly crisp, before being topped with pomelo, cashews and peanuts in a slightly spicy dressing. Thai larb with 1,000-year-old egg (HK$98) was an unusual combination with potential. It was a one-way street: the taste of the larb didn’t improve from the egg, but the egg tasted better because of the flavours from the larb.

What else? Our suspicions that the restaurant had previously served Japanese food proved correct when we received the bill – the receipt still said the name of the previous incarnation, Bubbles Sushi.