Restaurant review: Paradis in Central – French-Caribbean newcomer
Eclectic menu delivers mixed results, but the crab cake and slow-cooked pork chop are the stars of the show
L’Entrecote de Paris didn’t last long: the French steak house on Wyndham Street, which opened in late 2014, has closed its doors and reopened as another French (French Caribbean, to be precise) restaurant called Paradis.
Classic steak house decor has given way to a an attractive but dark dining room with murals in the style of Henri Rousseau.
After I ordered three starters, three mains and two sides for four of us to share, the waiter hesitated, leading me to ask if it was enough food. “It’s enough if you’re not too hungry,” he replied, so I ordered another main. He was wrong – portion sizes are generous.
A starter of crab cake with tomato ginger chutney and soy mustard sauce (HK$138) was our favourite dish of the night. The crab cake was excellent – moist, tender and tasting of its main ingredient. We also liked the octopus with pork belly, butternut squash and green salsa (HK$158). The slow-cooked octopus was wonderfully tender and the butternut squash purée was very smooth.
Accra with bird peppers and ginger (HK$108) was disappointing – the fish croquettes had a mealy texture and not much flavour, even with the sauce.
Of the mains, my three guests really disliked the soft texture of the 44 degree salmon (HK$220), with, which its spicy gravy, bean curd, bean sprouts, quail egg and fried bean curd, tasted similar to curry laksa. I was fine with the texture of the fish, but the dish needed something crisp, for contrast.
The macadamia-crusted lamb chop with lentils and east Indian yogurt (HK$368) had good flavour but was overcooked to medium (we weren’t asked how we wanted it done). Gambas risotto (HK$268) had nicely cooked rice that tasted as if it had been cooked in shrimp bisque, and the shrimp were large and sweet.
The slow-cooked Iberico pork chop with sweet potatoes and star anise sauce (HK$368) was my favourite main course – the meat was succulent, and game with delicious garlicky spinach. A side dish of creamy Indian-spiced spinach (HK$68) was misjudged – it had way too much cream, and hardly any spice.
3/F 46-48 Wyndham Street, Central, tel: 3182 0105. About HK$440 without drinks.