Newly opened Figaro in Sheung Wan – ambitious creative dishes but a mixed execution

Too much razzle dazzle lets down a menu that shouldn’t be trying to outshine the bar’s drinks list

PUBLISHED : Thursday, 09 June, 2016, 10:01pm
UPDATED : Thursday, 09 June, 2016, 10:01pm

Figaro, a newly opened wine bar off Aberdeen Street, is a quaint two-storey place, with the bar downstairs and dining room above. We quite like the bathroom doors that look like old school vending machines or jukeboxes, one for men and one for women.

On the menu are some ambitiously creative-sounding dishes, though the execution sometimes is a let-down.

First was the selection of bruschetta (HK$75). There were six pieces, two each of pesto, tapenade and aubergine. We liked the tapenade, but the aubergine was on the bland side, and surprisingly, so was the pesto.

Another starter was the goat cheese salad (HK$115) with roasted beetroot, Iberico ham and puffed quinoa topped with red-veined sorrel leaves. It was nice presentation and the flavours were quite enjoyable with the toasted quinoa adding crunchiness.

The crispy pea and mint ravioli with Parmesan foam and smoked salmon (HK$95) sounded intriguing. While the filling of peas and mint was delicate and refreshing, the flavours were lost in the deep-fried wrappers. The foam was interesting, but overwhelmed by an accompanying tart lemony sauce.

For mains, the black Angus beef (HK$135) was juicy and tender, but the black garlic gnocchi seemed irrelevant, while the beef crackling didn’t have much taste.

The beef actually went well with the herbed yogurt sauce in the Iberico pluma (HK$135).

The dish featuring the Iberico pork shoulder was even more enjoyable thanks to the delicious combination of the flavourful meat with fried Jerusalem artichokes, and refreshing mint-green sauce that topped the lamb’s lettuce salad.

There are two options for dessert. Unfortunately, the poached white peach (HK$85) looked much better than it tasted. The chunks of peach didn’t have much flavour and we disliked the accompanying lemon grass sorbet. The dessert was garnished with cream that at first tasted off, but then we realised it was actually smoked, but it marred the dish rather than enhancing it. There was too much going on and the peaches were lost among the other ingredients.

The dishes here don’t need too much razzle dazzle – this is a wine bar, after all and the food should complement the wines than try to outshine them.

Figaro, 2 Shin Hing Street, Sheung Wan, tel: 2757 1777