Bar review: Wolf Market in Central caters to Hongkongers’ love of stocks and bargains
The stock-trading-themed bar’s supply-and-demand pricing formula is a unique concept, but there are fixed-price signature cocktails on offer too
The vibe: describing itself as “Asia’s stock market bar”, Wolf Market has an original gimmick – the prices of drinks fluctuate with their popularity. In other words, if nobody has ordered a house gin for a while, the price goes down; if everyone’s ordering it, the price goes up. The small bar downstairs has a moving ticker display of liquor prices projected onto the curved ceiling, which recreates the fast-paced vibe of a stock trader’s office. The “Trader’s Bar” upstairs is bigger and more conventional – prices are fixed and there’s comfortable seating, though navigating the narrow, vertiginous staircase might prove a challenge after a few drinks. The décor throughout is shades of black, with shiny marble floors, black walls and black leather seats.
The drinks: most interesting of the signature cocktails we tried was Jazmin (HK$120, jasmine-infused vodka, jasmine syrup, lemon juice and green apple) which was floral on the nose, with a pleasantly bitter aftertaste. The Martinez (HK$110, gin, Dolin red vermouth, maraschino and bitters) is an elegant, historic cocktail now enjoying a well-deserved renaissance. Served straight-up, it’s like a lighter, sweeter version of the Negroni. However, the happy hour-only Hemingway Daiquiri (HK$50, Club Havana rum, lime juice, grapefruit juice and maraschino) was too diluted to have won the writer’s approval.
For those who prefer to stick to the classics, there’s a good list of premium drinks. A Hendrick’s Martini was well made and came complete with cucumber garnish, although the price (HK$120 for the gin plus HK$20 for the vermouth) was a little weird – if each ingredient is always priced separately, classic cocktails could be a costly investment.
The verdict: a bar calculated to appeal to Hong Kong’s passion for stocks, shares and grabbing bargains, Wolf Market is a smart concept, cleverly executed.
Wolf Market, UG/F, The Plaza, 21 D’Aguilar Street, Lan Kwai Fong. Tel: 2530 9622. Open: 11am till late