Bar review: Jerry Maguire Cocktails & Desserts, Causeway Bay – molecular mixology

The vibe: Jerry Maguire has a distinctive concept – showcasing desserts and dessert-style cocktails made with ultra-chic molecular gastronomy techniques. It’s lively, brightly lit and cheerful with seating in the bar area, a quieter room with tables and chairs at the back and an outdoor area. The focus on sweet stuff and artistic presentation is perfect for the tai-tais who shop next door at Lee Garden and the place was packed with trendy young locals. Happily, background music is the antithesis of Cantopop – any soundtrack that includes Radiohead and The Fratellis gets a vote from me.

The drinks: although the bar’s named after the film, only one drink references it (“You Complete Me” – ironically it was off the drinks list the night we went) and Alice in Wonderland seems to be a more common theme. You can order Alice The Wonderland in mocktail or cocktail versions. The alcoholic version (HK$198, rum, Midori, elderflower syrup, mint, pineapple) came decorated with a macaron “mushroom” and crowned with a tiara of spun sugar and gold leaf which looked exquisite (although it made it tricky to get to the drink – you had to eat the decoration first, conjuring up memories of candyfloss). The drink was pale green and sweet with mint being the predominant flavour and it must be said there wasn’t much of it for the wince-inducing price, half of it being foam (molecular or not, foam is foam, not a drink).

Before Sunset (HK$128, Earl Grey-infused gin, Cointreau, Earl Grey tea, apple juice, osmanthus syrup) was a refreshing, mildly alcoholic sweet iced tea.

From the dessert mocktail list, Raspberry Tea Party (HK$78, raspberry-infused Earl Grey tea, pineapple, cranberry juice) was basically another iced tea – fruity and sweet, it could have done with more acidity from the cranberry and raspberry. Jerry’s Coffee (HK$78) was a strong and, you guessed it – sweet – iced espresso.

If the signature dessert cocktails and dessert mocktails are too sweet for your taste, like the music, there’s something for everyone with classic cocktails, a range of premium spirits and for beer lovers the excellent Orion draught from Okinawa (HK$68 per glass or all you can drink for HK$200 during happy hour).

The verdict: Jerry Maguire is a fun place if you have a sweet tooth and enjoy designer presentation, not so much if you like your drinks strong rather than sweet – or if you’re on a budget.

23 Lan Fong Road, Causeway Bay

Tel: 2881 5008

Open: Monday to Friday noon-2am, Saturday 1pm-2am, Sunday noon-6pm.

Happy hour: daily until 8pm