Restaurant review: Fugazi offers good skewers, but the noodles disappoint a little
The skewers are done in a variety of styles – Japanese, Korean, Malaysian and Xinjiang – but the ramen are better in specialist Japanese shops and the laksa’s unfamiliar tastes won’t please everyone
Since the extension of the MTR to Kennedy Town in late 2014, Sai Wan has become the new Central, attracting trendy restaurants to set up shop.
Fugazi, offering fusion cuisine and a wide selection of wine, is the latest addition. The head chef, who hails from Malaysia, has created a menu of 12 types of skewers with house-made sauces. The skewers are cooked in different styles including Japanese, Korean, Malaysian and Xinjiang, using ingredients such as French chicken, Philippine deep-sea prawns and Australian beef.
We liked the Indonesian-style sate manis (HK$36), with its tender beef that goes well with the peanut-based sauce. Also good was the Xinjiang lamb fillet (HK$26), which has cumin and Sichuan pepper to balance the meat’s distinctive flavour.
The Japanese-style yaki pineapple skewer (HK$20) was served with sea salt, which brings out the sweetness of the fruit. We also liked the savoury sea snail skewer (HK$60), which was roasted with butter and topped with deep-fried garlic.
Compared to the skewer dishes, the two noodle offerings were a bit of a let-down. The Kurobuta ramen (HK$68) with pork belly, soft boiled egg, spring onion and black fungus was not as good as the ramen served in Japanese specialist shops, and the pork belly was too fatty.
The Sarawak laksa (HK$68) is cooked in the style of Kuching, the capital of the state of Sarawak in Malaysia and the hometown of the head chef. The flavours of clove, anise and tamarind might be a bit strange to Hong Kong palates, which are more used to the curry version of laksa served at other restaurants around town.
The drinks selection is quite extensive, and includes wine, sake and international beers.
Fugazi, 21 Catchick Street, Kennedy Town, tel: 2817 7377. Open: 11.30am-midnight
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