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Hong Kong restaurant reviews
LifestyleFood & Drink

We try Michelin chef Pierre Gagnaire’s Hong Kong brunch - his first ever

Gagnaire’s debut brunch at The Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong offers imaginative dishes, a choice of champagne or kombucha, and an enormous dessert buffet

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Pierre Gagnaire had never served buffets before his Hong Kong debut.
SCMP Reporter

Restaurants offering brunch are pretty standard these days, but for Pierre at the Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong, it’s a first – not just for its Hong Kong location, but all of Pierre Gagnaire’s restaurants worldwide.

The brunch made its debut this past Sunday and at HK$688 plus 10 per cent, the price is comparable to others in town, but the offerings are on another level. Guests can choose from a boozy brunch with a carafe of champagne, or detox with kombucha made with aloe vera, green apple, cucumber and pistachio.

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First up is a bread basket, including a delicious pain au chocolat. It’s hard to resist inhaling the whole basket (which is soon replaced with another) but you should, because a full meal awaits.

Sliced abalone.
Sliced abalone.
Following Gagnaire’s style, the starters are a medley of dishes, such as sliced abalone with seaweed, smoked mackerel, oysters in a light creamy sauce, vegetable purée, and a delicate tart covered in caviar and colourful mini broccoli florets. There are also a few bites on the plate, including beef wrapped with caramelised onions, and ham and button mushroom roll.
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Next came a choice of egg dishes. The flat Vietnamese omelette is fantastic, a beautifully plated dish with colourful ingredients such as pickled onions, coriander, shrimp and salmon. The omelette was slightly runny and a light, satisfying dish.

Nested quail egg and tomato jam.
Nested quail egg and tomato jam.
The nested quail egg with tomato jam was a cute presentation – a trio of the small eggs wrapped in a fine pastry so they looked as if they were encased in a nest. They were cooked perfectly, the inside slightly runny, butthe accompanying tomato jam didn’t add much flavour.
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