Hong Kong restaurant reviews

First impressions of Bizou American Brasserie, Admiralty – a menu to suit everyone

Replacing the much-loved Grappa’s in Pacific Place, Bizou features a Magnus Hansson-designed bill of fare with something to please most palates, including the health-conscious diner, and all beautifully presented

PUBLISHED : Tuesday, 24 January, 2017, 12:45pm
UPDATED : Wednesday, 25 January, 2017, 3:29pm

Bizou American Brasserie, which opened last month, is the restaurant that replaced Grappa’s in Pacific Place, which closed after 27 years in the upscale Admiralty shopping mall.

The new restauranthas all-day dining, with tables spilling outside into the mall. The interior is a cavernous space that is divided into smaller sections with lots of wood panelling and tiles.

We had made a late booking, and weren’t given a table inside. We were disappointed at first, but once we settled in, we quite enjoyed the airy, bright, open space outside.

The menu is designed by Magnus Hansson, known for his farm-to-table dining at Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s ABC Kitchen in New York. The menu pretty much has something for everyone, including the health-conscious.

One of these is the pan-roasted beets with avocado (HK$108), a colourful and delicious starter to share. It had quite a zing from the horseradish and green chilli, crunchy texture from the crushed hazelnuts, and a touch of lemon zest for brightness and colour.

Our main courses came soon after, and the small table made it difficult to share. An excellent dish was the oven-roasted Norwegian salmon dressed with fresh herbs (HK$248). The salmon, served with chopped Brussels sprouts and three large green olives, was moist and tender, and tasted even better when we squeezed the chargrilled lemon over the fish.

The aged grass-fed beef fillet (HK$288 for 170 grams, HK$368 for 250 grams) was more rare than our requested medium-rare, but we were fine with it. However, we weren’t given steak knives to cut into it, which was trying at times. The accompanying red miso butter sauce was a perfect complement to the beef, which also came with apricot grain mustard marmalade. The baked purple yam made us feel more healthy for eating the dish.

For dessert, we couldn’t resist trying the gooey chocolate cake (HK$98). It wasn’t too sweet, and came with a tangy lemon kumquat marmalade. The dessert was decorated with a dollop of whipped ricotta, and strangely, two fried sage leaves sticking out the top.

We’ll probably come back soon to try other items, which looked just as good as the ones we sampled.

Bizou American Brasserie, shop 132, L1, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, tel: 2871 0775