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LifestyleFood & Drink
Nellie Ming Lee

Grape & Grain | A brief history of bitters, from Pharaonic tombs to Jäger bombs

How medicinal elixirs became essential cocktail ingredients, and the doctors and apothecaries to whom you should raise a glass next time you neck a negroni or sip a sazerac

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A negroni from Foxglove at Printing House in Central. Its base is the classic Italian bitters Campari. Photo: Jonathan Wong

Much of what goes into making spirits had their beginnings in medicine – botanical ingredients,believed to have curative qualities, that were steeped in alcohol to preserve them. Many of these ingredients were considered inedible in their original state, as they were very bitter in flavour. The bitterness was imparted to the spirit they were preserved in, which was not sweetened because sugar at that time was a precious commodity.

In the tombs of ancient Egyptians, traces of medicinal herbs have been found in jars that were used to store wine, so this may be the earliest origin of bitters, if the two had indeed been stored together.

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During the Middle Ages, bitters were concocted to calm the stomach and for use as medicinal tonics.

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From this era, Benedictine was created by a monk – Dom Bernardo Vincelli, in 1510, and it is still enjoyed today. There are 27 different botanicals and spices used in Benedictine, and the recipe has been kept a secret and passed down through the generations so that no more than three people know how to make it at any given time.

Angostura bitters
Angostura bitters
Angostura, the most common of all the bitters, is a staple of every bar and an indispensable element in many cocktails. And it has an interesting history.The story goes back to 1824, when Dr Siegert created bitters to use in his practice as surgeon to the Bolivian army, as a stomach tonic and cure for seasickness. He lived in the town of Angostura in Venezuela, hence the name. His family later moved to Trinidad in the Caribbean and established a small factory to make his concoction, which had become wildly successful after being awarded a Medal of Excellence at the 1873 Grand Exhibition in Vienna, the first of many accolades.
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