Hong Kong's top restaurants: Bo Innovation, Wan Chai – old-school modern
Alvin Leung’s ‘X-treme Chinese Cuisine’ tasting menus take diners on an imaginative stroll down memory lane, with the Demon Chef’s modern deconstructions of old Hong Kong favourites
“Demon Chef” Alvin Leung first contorted my brain in 2009 with his improbable creations at Bo Innovation. For years after that experience, I described to anyone who would listen how mind-bending I found his laap mei fan Chinese-sausage ice cream and xiao long bao, which came not wrapped in dough but in a delicate seaweed membrane that burst with juicy pork-dumpling flavours.
Back then Leung’s molecular concoctions conjured up culinary wizardry the likes of which I’d not encountered since Enid Blyton’s The Magic Faraway Tree. So it was with childish excitement that I revisited Bo Innovation, in its “new” Wan Chai location, recently.
Two “Hong Kong Story” tasting menus were offered to show off Leung’s “X-treme Chinese Cuisine” – expensive (HK$1,980 for 10 dishes) and very expensive (HK$2,380 for 14 dishes). We had one of each, and shared the offerings not included in the less-pricey option. That included Air, a chemistry experiment producing foam with hints of Florida Water cologne, century egg and raspberry (my guest applauded the drama; I thought it soapy, literally); and Baby Food, which recreated a spam and egg sandwich, with black truffle in a jar (he loved it; I gagged).
That was where the divergence of opinion ended, although I would have preferred a more leisurely serving pace: it was a Friday evening after all and the restaurant, despite its three Michelin stars, was not full.
Beginning with Childs Play (sic), which was egg waffles in a paper bag, we loved the playfulness and new sensations. This version of the popular sweet street snack featured savoury chives, yet still qualified as comfort food.
“Bamboo” (foie gras, miso, green apple) was the evening’s standout for my guest, who described it as “succulent, tender and beautifully cooked”. Had we chosen the wine-pairing menu (an additional
HK$1,100 each), he would have accompanied the dish with a sweet white wine.
We probably would have appreciated the desserts more had there been fewer dishes in the lead up, but that is a backhanded compliment. Our evening was an experience, and one made even more memorable by the unintended sideshow. In a flat facing the restaurant, a workman dressed only in small shorts painted a wall under the light of a naked bulb. Ah, Hong Kong.
Bo Innovation, J Residence, shop 8, 1/F The Podium, J Senses, 60 Johnston Road (entrance on Ship Street), Wan Chai, tel: 2850 8371
While you’re in the area: