Bar review: Worth The Fuss in Causeway Bay – worth it if you are passing
WTF is a friendly hang-out in a soulless streetscape, but the knowledgeable bartender, a decent selection of malt whiskies and a perfectly dry Martini make it well worth a visit
The vibe: Worth the Fuss is an oasis on a thirst-inducing stretch of Causeway Bay’s Morrison Hill Road, surely one of Hong Kong’s least atmospheric streets (unless you have a passion for lighting fixtures). A huge “WTF” picked out in lights on the façade makes it easy to spot. The bar has clearly established itself as a neighbourhood hang-out – everyone who came in seemed to know each other – and manages a creditably cosy feel despite the soulless location. The manager/bartender is knowledgeable and eager to help you find the right drink. For those who like their noise levels higher, there are live music and DJ nights.
The drinks: the list features a good range of malt whiskies alongside signature and classic cocktails. The original cocktails seem aimed at patrons such as the ladies who lunch, who were occupying one corner of the room when we arrived – sweet flavours, cute names. In search of sterner stuff we focused on the classics, starting off with two great drinks from the 1920s.
The Boulevardier (HK$95, rye whisky, Rinomato, red vermouth, orange bitters), was delicious, rich, complex and well-balanced. Unfortunately, the Bronx (HK$120, London No 1 gin, sweet and dry vermouth, orange juice) had been shaken too long, diluting both the delicate flavour and the subtle kick this drink should have.
Continuing our voyage in time, the Old-Fashioned (HK$95, bourbon, sugar, bitters), which dates back all the way to the 1880s, was nicely made, with a touch of soda water added to lighten it. Jumping to the 1950s, we asked for the Vesper (HK$120, gin, vodka, dry vermouth) to be stirred, not shaken (sorry, James Bond) and the result was a perfect Martini, elegant, intense and dry.
The verdict: Worth the Fuss? Maybe not enough to make a special trip, but well worth a visit if you’re in the area.
10 Morrison Hill Road, Causeway Bay, tel: 2792 0823
Open: Monday to Saturday 4pm-2am. Happy hour: (30 per cent off) 4pm-8.30pm
While you’re in the area: