Restaurant review: The Chin’s in Central – elegant, high-end Chinese food at a price
The Chin’s serves up well-flavoured and good-looking classic Chinese dishes in pretty and lavish surroundings
The space at 13 Stanley Street in Central has traded in one high-end Chinese restaurant, Sun Tung Lok (which still has its original in Tsim Sha Tsui) for another. The Chin’s is one of the prettiest, most elegant Chinese restaurants I’ve been to in recent memory; we especially liked the tableware, ceramic pots on the tables, and some of the lavish upholstery.
As you’d expect from such surroundings, a meal here isn’t going to be cheap – most of the dried seafood dishes and all of the soups were priced per person.
The meal was served at the perfect pace. We started with a trio of appetisers. Crispy frog legs with spicy salt (HK$80) were moist and meaty, although a bit small. Roasted pork belly had several pieces that were underseasoned, but the neatly sliced squares had just the right proportion of fat to tender meat, and the skin was thin and crisp. Shredded chicken with Sichuan peppercorn and chilli oil (HK$80) could have used a bit more salt, but the sauce was well balanced and not too spicy.
Sautéed river shrimp (HK$360) were soft and mild, and the accompanying fried olive seeds (which tasted like Indian almonds) gave a subtle crunch. Poached conpoy-flavoured chicken (HK$280 for half, HK$560 for whole) had a light, delicate flavour and tender meat. We also liked the strong flavour of the wok-fried string beans with termite mushrooms (HK$180).
The only dish that was a failure was the double-boiled beef brisket with turnip in clear broth (HK$220). While the beef was fine, the turnip chunks were mushy, and the broth – which should have been a highlight of the dish – was overwhelmingly salty, and we couldn’t drink it.
The Chin’s, 13 Stanley Street, Central, tel: 2595 0808. About HK$510 without drinks or the service charge.
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