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Grilled octopus skewers with black olive tapenade, carrot purée and capers at Tokyolima. Photo: James Wendlinger

Restaurant review: TokyoLima in Central – Peruvian Japanese fusion

You may recognise most of the names of the dishes, but the South American influence clearly stands out in the presentation and flavours

It’s not difficult to guess what is being served at TokyoLima – the cuisine that was developed over the years by Japanese immigrants to Peru. Some of the dishes sound familiar to anyone who’s eaten at Japanese restaurants, but they take on a very different form and flavour.

The interior of TokyoLima. Photo: James Wendlinger
The menu is divided into sections of small plates, raw and seared, sushi, sticks, and larger plates of seafood and meats. We tried to choose dishes with a TokyoLima icon.

From the raw and seared section of the menu, we chose the tuna and watermelon tartare (HK$150). We liked the surprise factor of the dish: the cubes of raw tuna and watermelon were the same colour so in the dim light, you couldn’t see which was which, although they felt different when you picked them up. But the ingredients were drowned in the soy citrus sauce, which overwhelmed the fresh flavours.

La Causa. Photo: James Wendlinger
La Causa – beetroot causa, prawn tartare, rocoto (a South American chilli) and garlic mayo, prawn tempura and charred avocado (HK$140) – was better. The prawn tartare tasted too oniony when we tried it on its own. On the advice of the friendly waitress, we mixed everything together and the beetroot balanced the tartare. The prawn tempura was juicy, with a delicately crisp batter.

T-3 (HK$120) – the “three textures salad” that the menu stated was “like a typhoon for your taste buds” was more like a T-1 typhoon. The mix of ingredients was nice and included pumpkin, quail egg, tomatoes, mixed greens, and a few pieces of fennel with a mild dressing.

Ki-mo-chi chicken. Photo: James Wendlinger
Ki-mo-chi fried chicken (HK$110) was our favourite dish. The karaage style chicken thighs were moist with a thin crust. The chicken pieces were served with what the waitress described as a “spicy soy mayo” which was not spicy, nor was it needed because the chicken had enough flavour.

Octopus sticks – grilled octopus with black olive tapenade, carrot purée and capers (HK$150) featured wonderfully tender octopus that could have used a touch more salt.

My banana. Photo: James Wendlinger
“My banana” (HK$120) looked like a mess – it’s definitely not anything you’ll want to share on social media. But the dessert, meant to be shared, was a delicious mess, with lightly caramelised bananas, cinnamon ice cream, baked apple, crumble and whipped cream.

TokyoLima, 18-20 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, tel: 2811 1152. About HK$400 without drinks. There’s no service charge.

While you’re in the area:

This article appeared in the South China Morning Post print edition as: TokyoLima
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