Hong Kong restaurant reviews

Newly opened Wolfgang’s Steakhouse in Central doesn’t stand out from the crowd

The crab cake starter was generous with the crabmeat, but the HK$1,050 Black Angus porterhouse for two was bland and the lime pie lacked tartness

PUBLISHED : Wednesday, 28 June, 2017, 5:00pm
UPDATED : Wednesday, 28 June, 2017, 5:00pm

As if Hong Kong didn’t have enough steak houses, another one has joined the crowd. Wolfgang’s Steakhouse by Wolfgang Zwiener opened recently on Duddell Street and when we went on the second evening, it was almost full of (mostly male) carnivores.

The restaurant looks like every other steak house – lots of leather, dark wood and a wine cellar, along with Roy Lichtenstein-esque prints of cows.

When we arrived there was just one other table occupied and lots of staff milling around. But by 7pm, several groups had streamed in and things got busy – and noisy – thanks to the low ceiling and hard surfaces.

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The menu is pretty straightforward – it’s all on one page. In the bread basket, the onion-filled buns were nice, but skip the sliced baguettes – they were as hard as rocks.

For starters, the crab cake (HK$158) was large enough for two people. Lightly breaded and pan-fried, and generously filled with crabmeat, it was best eaten with the tartare sauce.

Wolfgang’s salad (HK$165) was served in an iceberg lettuce bowl, filled with peppers, tomato, French beans, onions, chopped prawns and pan-fried cubes of Canadian bacon. It was refreshing, and the bacon added flavour and substance.

After a short wait that also entailed changing to warm plates, our main event arrived – a porterhouse for two (HK$1,050). The prime USDA Black Angus 28-day beef came sizzling hot and already sliced into large chunks.

It didn’t have char marks, which led us to believe it was pan-fried. Our waiter served us two pieces each and drizzled the meat with the drippings.

We were surprised at its blandness; the meat would have benefited from a sprinkling of salt before it was served.

We tried it with the signature Wolfgang’s Old Fashioned Sauce that was on the table. It’s on the tart side thanks to its tomatoes, vinegar, grated horseradish, soy and shallots.

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We had a side of mashed potatoes (HK$89) that was buttery, creamy and delicious.

For dessert, the lime pie (HK$86) was average. The filling wasn’t as tart as we like, but we enjoyed the graham cracker crust.

Wolfgang’s Steakhouse by Wolfgang Zwiener, 1/F, Printing House, 6 Duddell Street, Central, tel: 3990 1646

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