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Hong Kong restaurant reviews
LifestyleFood & Drink

Restaurant review: Sushi Masataka in Wan Chai – succulent, decadent, perfectly seasoned courses

Chef Masataka Fujisawa, previously of Rozan, has created something special here, with standouts including the uni hand roll, black sea perch and naughty, melt-in-your mouth toro

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Sushi Masataka’s uni hand roll, which chef Masataka hands to diners as soon as he makes it so the crisp seaweed contrasts with the slightly warm rice and cool, rich sea urchin. Photo: David Wong
Susan Jung

I tried. I really tried. When I called to book Sushi Masataka, I firmly told the hostess that I don’t eat bluefin tuna. I repeated it to her when my guest and I sat down at the sushi counter and ordered the smaller of the two omakase menus (HK$2,080 for 14 dishes, HK$2,980 for 18). I meant it, too.

The three layers of tuna nigiri. Photo: David Wong
The three layers of tuna nigiri. Photo: David Wong

But then I saw the chef slicing the toro – three thin slices for each piece of nigiri – and my resolve started to weaken. This is one of chef Masataka Fujisawa’s specialities, something he served at Rozan, which was this restaurant space’s previous incarnation.

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Two types of anago (eel). Photo: David Wong
Two types of anago (eel). Photo: David Wong

There was only one empty seat at the nine-seat sushi counter and chef Masa prepared and served all of us (at many sushi restaurants there’s a hierarchy, with the chef’s assistants preparing items for the guests at the outer edges of the counter). Guests are encouraged to pick up the sushi with their fingers, and a small finger bowl is provided.

Newly opened Sushi Ono has omakase for under HK$900, rare in Hong Kong, and it’s delicious too

The meal started with a cold dish of shiro ebi (baby white shrimp) with uni and edamame. The tiny white shrimp were very delicate, with a nice sticky texture.

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