In Pacific Northwest, wines for adventurous drinkers that offer something different
Biodynamic in Oregon, Bordeaux blends in Washington – northwestern states proves America’s wine talent stretches beyond Napa Valley’s famous labels. A shame most wineries are too small to export to Hong Kong - so why not go there?
The neighbouring American states of Washington and Oregon share a border and a viticultural area (Columbia Valley), but that’s just about where the similarities end. North of the Columbia River, Oregon’s earthy, natural spirit gives way to Washington’s experimental ethos, where winemakers take their oenologist role seriously by testing different grape varieties and winemaking techniques.
Visiting recently as part of an Institute of Masters of Wine tour, I was struck by the expansion of Washington – America’s second largest producer behind California – from a few dozen wineries in the 1980s to more than 350 growers, 900-plus wine brands, and about 20,000 hectares of plantings. The region consists mainly of large vineyards on big tracts of land planted inland in the state’s far east, where the climate is dryer and the weather warmer.
How zinfandel left behind its ’80s blush party image and found a discerning, red-wine-loving crowd
Washington’s emphasis is in crafting cabernet and merlot, with some attention to syrah. Eastern Washington’s desert-like conditions create full-flavoured, robust wines that are enhanced by spicy oak flavours. These are wines meant for big American steak dinners – or in Hong Kong, they pair well with Cantonese braised beef. Master of wine Madeleine Stenwreth described the Betz Family Winery’s Père de Famille as having “beautifully structured tannins”, that demonstrate why “cab is king” in the region.
Despite success with gutsy Bordeaux varieties, Washington’s winemakers can’t help but experiment, cultivating 70 different grapes across 14 American Viticultural Areas (AVAs).
Walla Walla, in eastern Washington’s high desert landscape, produces flavourful, aromatic red wines that have more tartness than California reds. Chardonnay is Washington’s most planted white variety, and the state boasts the biggest acreage of riesling in the US.