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Bar review: Employees Only in Lan Kwai Fong – professional staff and bags of character

This popular speakeasy-style bar reworks the classics and serves up balanced cocktails with plenty of flavour – it’s well worth a visit

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The interior of Employees Only in Central. Photo: K.Y. Cheng

The vibe: Employees Only is the eagerly anticipated Hong Kong branch of one of New York’s most celebrated speakeasy-style bars.

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There’s no name above the entrance, making it a little hard to find (look out for the red neon sign saying “Psychic”). However, this was no deterrent to the punters. A few days after opening the place was so packed with happily chatting drinkers it felt more like a cocktail party than a bar.

Décor is traditional and unpretentious, with a very long, curving bar, low ceilings and dark wood tones – sadly, the barstools are not designed for long-term sitting. Staff are professional, courteous and knowledgeable – they apologised for the long wait for our first drink, and we were assured it wouldn’t happen again, which it didn’t, despite the number of customers.

The drinks: the cocktail list focuses on revisiting or revamping the classics and gets extra points for stating the serving style (straight up, over ice, etc) for each drink.
Between the Sheets - gorgeous. Photo: K.Y. Cheng
Between the Sheets - gorgeous. Photo: K.Y. Cheng
Between the Sheets (HK$140, Pierre Ferrand 1840 Cognac, Plantation Rum, orange Curaçao, lemon juice) was a gorgeous version of a Prohibition-era standard: full, smooth, strong yet beautifully balanced.
The West Side - tart and refreshing. Photo: K.Y. Cheng
The West Side - tart and refreshing. Photo: K.Y. Cheng
West Side (HK$140, St George California Citrus Vodka and fresh lemon juice shaken with fresh mint) was tart and refreshing, with the intense lemon flavour disguising its potency.
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The Provencal - shades of shower gel. Photo: K.Y. Cheng
The Provencal - shades of shower gel. Photo: K.Y. Cheng
Among the more original offerings, Provençal (HK$130, lavender-infused Fords Gin, herbes de Provence-infused Noilly Prat, Cointreau) was intriguing and pleasantly dry, if a little heavy on the lavender (shades of shower gel).
The Paloma - pleasingly citrusy. Photo: K.Y. Cheng
The Paloma - pleasingly citrusy. Photo: K.Y. Cheng
Paloma (HK$120, Cimarron Tequila, lime, grapefruit, agave and Pompelmo grapefruit soda) was pleasingly citrusy, the grapefruit notes complimenting the dry tequila nicely.

The verdict: living up to its reputation, Employees Only is a welcome oasis of high class mixology and top-notch service in Lan Kwai Fong.

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