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Diner's Diary
LifestyleFood & Drink
Bernice Chan

Diner’s Diary | At Duddell’s, veteran chef serves modern takes on Cantonese classic dishes

Fung Man-ip brings more than 35 years’ experience to bear in a menu that includes inventive and inviting twists on such dishes as siu mai, fried lobster, and sweet and sour pork

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Duddell's executive chef Fung Man-ip has given a contemporary twist to some Chinese classics.
Bernice Chanin Vancouver

Central restaurant Duddell’s has given executive chef Fung Man-ip a few months to settle in and is now presenting his version of refined Cantonese cuisine with a contemporary twist.

Fung is a seasoned chef, having worked for more than 35 years in kitchens including those of Golden Jade Seafood Restaurant, Lei Garden, the Michelin-starred Dynasty Restaurant at the Renaissance Hong Kong Harbour View Hotel, and most recently Mott 32 in Central.

The food at Mott 32 Vancouver, where prices are as eye-popping as the decor, is mostly worth it

At a recent tasting, Fung presented a menu that not only demonstrates his culinary skills, but also his keen interest in improving favourite dishes.

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Soft-boiled quail egg and pork dumpling with shrimp broth and caviar.
Soft-boiled quail egg and pork dumpling with shrimp broth and caviar.

One example is the classic dim sum dish of siu mai, or steamed ground pork and chopped shrimp dumpling. He creates his own version by inserting a soft-boiled quail egg inside the dumpling so that the yolk oozes out when you bite into it; the dumpling is seasoned with shrimp broth for extra flavour.

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Barbecued Iberico pork with honey glaze was very tender and not too sweet, and another appetiser, marinated cucumber with jelly fish, was nicely seasoned.

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