The secrets to great lechon - whole roasted suckling pig that’s virtually a Filipino national dish

In the last few years, there has been talk internationally of Filipino cuisine becoming the next big thing. While Jollibee fried chicken is probably the most famous export, many would consider the country’s national dish to be lechon, or roast stuffed pig, which has crunchy skin and meat that is tender and flavoured from the stuffing.

At the third annual Madrid Fusion Manila fair earlier this year, one of the themed lunches during the three-day event was nose-to-tail dining, and for Filipinos the best way to demonstrate this is through lechon.

There are myriad number of ways to prepare it – and due to its size, it requires a number of people to eat it – which is why lechon is reserved for special occasions.

“Each province has its own way of making it,” explains Happy Ongpauco-Tiu, whose family runs a chain called Barrio Fiesta, as well as several other restaurants that serve versions of lechon along with other traditional Filipino dishes.

She stresses it’s best to use a piglet that’s about three months old to ensure the meat is very tender. The traditional way of making lechon is to marinate the pig with salt, pepper and fish sauce for a few daysbefore stuffing it with herbs that are pounded to bring out the aromas and flavours. The pig is then slow roasted for three to four hours, traditionally over an open fire with charcoal, or in a brick oven.