Diner’s DiarySimon Kealy brings an eccentric charm to The French Window

The French Window in IFC Mall is having identity issues, constantly changing its concepts. Several years ago it was uber fine dining, then it went casual bistro, and now with new chef Simon Kealy at the helm, it’s back to fine dining but without the stuffiness.

Part of the restaurant is sectioned off for happy hour patrons who are welcome to stay on for dinner, while prime tables are by the windows for diners to enjoy the view overlooking Victoria Harbour.

We were recently invited to meet Kealy and sample his tasting menu, a six-course dinner at HK$980 per person, with an additional HK$200 for wine pairings. It was a pretty solid meal, though it started slowly. The dishes have one-word names such as Pork, Pea or Beef.

A few amuse-bouches to start and it was evident early on that Kealy likes to be playful on the plate when we were served a pink macaron – wasn’t it supposed to be sweet? But in fact it was beetroot flavoured with some foie gras. Savoury decadence.

This was followed by pressed pork terrine, thoughtfully accompanied with refreshing Sauternes jelly, pickled carrots to balance the meatiness of the dish, and some curious crunchy bits that were called pork popcorn, and mustard dressing.

Next came what looked like a garden on the plate, featuring beetroot carpaccio, asparagus, radish, broad beans, jelly and beetroot purée. We like the inclusion of more vegetables particularly in French menus and this dish was very welcome.