Restaurant review: Le 39V in the ICC, West Kowloon – Gallic classics at sky-high prices

Le 39V – a Hong Kong branch of the one-Michelin-star original in Paris – is the latest restaurant to join others of similar calibre (and price) perched on the 101st floor of the ICC in West Kowloon.

We were escorted to a comfortable table by the picture windows that gave us a great view of the harbour and Hong Kong Island; fortunately for us, it was a clear night. The main dining area was about half full, but both private rooms were occupied.

A waiter placed beautiful, airy gougères [cheesy choux pastries] on the table for us to nibble on; they were so good that I greedily ate three of them, when my fair share would have been just two. The olives served with them were also excellent.

We weren’t in the mood for a tasting menu (a five-course summer menu for HK$1,700 plus 10 per cent or four-course degustation for HK$1,200), although the price would have worked out about the same as choosing à la carte, which had more interesting offerings.

For our starter, my guest and I shared a main course dish of blue lobster ravioles with herbs, vegetables and bisque broth (HK$680). We loved it: tender pasta, nicely-seasoned stuffing, delicious broth, a substantial chunk of lobster meat on top, and fresh herbs such as chervil and purple shiso.

My roasted Bresse pigeon (HK$620) came medium-rare, rather than my requested rare, but the meat was succulent and tender. The accompaniments – fresh and cooked ripe figs, aubergine purée, fried sage, crisp lettuce and an intense pigeon jus – complemented the meat.