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Hong Kong restaurant reviews

Newly opened Paper Moon in Tsim Sha Tsui – food doesn’t come close to matching the view

If problems like off-tasting fish, an unimpressive signature dish and below-par pizza persist, it is unlikely many people will make the long walk to Harbour City’s newest Italian restaurant. Shame, because the view is lovely

PUBLISHED : Wednesday, 25 October, 2017, 1:03pm
UPDATED : Wednesday, 25 October, 2017, 1:03pm

Harbour City continues to expand with even more restaurants for hungry shoppers. The latest is Paper Moon, opened by Paul Kwok of the 1957 & Co restaurant group, along with designers Steve Leung and Tino Kwan.

The recently opened Italian restaurant is at the far end of Ocean Terminal, past the LCX department store. It might seem like a long walk, but once you arrive, you are rewarded with a sparkling view of Hong Kong Island across the harbour.

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The place goes for the La Dolce Vita feel with black and white stills from films featuring Eddie Redmayne, Faye Wong and Julia Roberts, but your eye always goes back to the view outside. There is also a narrow balcony that is great for drinks now that it’s getting cooler.

The menu is straightforward, although the prices are pretty steep for what you get. The bread basket set a tone of stinginess; the few slices of focaccia and flat bread were a sparse offering in the large, silver-coloured bowl. At least the bread was warm.

Our starter of the handmade burrata alla caprese (HK$178) looked tempting, although it was rather small. It was served with tomato wedges, dry-looking rocket leaves and two better-looking butter lettuce leaves. The burrata, though, tasted more like tart yogurt than rich and creamy.

Next came pappardelle Paper Moon (HK$168). If you are going to name a dish after the restaurant, it better be good. But what we were served was not impressive enough to be a signature dish: pasta in an orangey-pink sauce with a few bits of salty bacon.

We were hoping things would get better with the pizza of porcini mushrooms, mozzarella, rocket salad and black truffle shavings (HK$228). It was served warm, not hot, and was sparsely topped with a few small pieces of porcini and black truffle shavings, while in the middle was a pile of wilted rocket leaves. We’ve had better at Pizza Express.

The main of Chilean sea bass (HK$288) looked pretty on the plate, with baby spinach, tomatoes and capers. But the taste of the sea bass was off – we think it was frozen rather than fresh, and what looked like chopped onions or potatoes were actually bits of lemon that were so sour it was shocking to the taste buds.

Would dessert save the day? The Paper Moon tiramisu (HK$98) should have been a safe choice – and it was for those who are adversely affected by caffeine. That’s because when we put our spoons into the glass, the lady fingers were still hard – they had not been soaked in espresso.

We understand the restaurant had only been open for around three weeks when we visited, and we hope these problems on the menu will be sorted out soon. Otherwise not many diners may venture out so far into Ocean Terminal for a meal that only seems good for the view.

Paper Moon, Shop OTE 301, Level 3, Ocean Terminal, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, tel: 2156 2256

Other Harbour City restaurants we’ve written about recently:

First impressions of Blue Elephant in Tsim Sha Tsui

The Cheesecake Factory Hong Kong – worth the wait for a table at American chain’s new outlet?