New & noted: Hoi Wan Heen, Tsim Sha Tsui – traditional Chinese fare at its finest
The initially rather odd mix of Cantonese and Sichuan – subtle flavours vs strong – complimented each other beautifully, with the signature camphor smoked duck one of the best versions of the dish we’ve tasted
It’s been a long time since we visited Hullett House, the hotel and restaurant part of the former Marine Police headquarters in Tsim Sha Tsui, which stands out as a welcome relief from the rest of the complex below because it’s tastefully done rather than garishly Disney-fied.
Restaurant Hoi Wan Heen, reached by going down a corridor then through a courtyard, is a lovely room – retro Chinese, without being kitsch.
The menu is a rather odd mix of Cantonese and Sichuan – subtle flavours vs strong. We ordered a few of each and the waiters, without being asked, brought the lighter dishes first so the stronger ones didn’t overwhelm our palates.
We suspected we were in for a good meal with the complimentary dish of wood ear fungus that was subtly spiced with Sichuan peppercorns.
An appetiser of steamed eggplant with deep-fried garlic in soy sauce (HK$68) was nice and light, and the garlic wasn’t too strong. We loved the deep-fried bean curd with home-made spices (HK$78). It was an excellent version of the dish with tender bean curd and a delicate crust.