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Hong Kong restaurant reviews
LifestyleFood & Drink

New & noted: Zen, Wan Chai – a satisfying mix of old school and hip dishes for all tastes

From traditional char siu and sizzling Chinese lettuce hotpot to the funky pan-fried king prawns and clams with vegetables in red fermented wine paste, this enjoyable menu celebrates both new and old cuisines

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Pan-fried king prawns and clams with vegetables in red fermented wine paste at Zen in Wan Chai. Photo: Xiaomei Chen
Susan Jung

Those of you with long memories will remember Zen back when it was in Pacific Place. By the time it closed in 2013, it was getting a bit tired, and wasn’t anything I would have recommended. On the other hand, Zen Too – a younger, hipper reincarnation that existed for only two years – was excellent, and we were sorry to see it go in 2016.

So what was Zen – the newest version, in Wan Chai – going to be: old-school and mediocre, or young, hip and delicious?

Deep-fried crispy baby oysters in Taiwanese style. Photo: Xiaomei Chen
Deep-fried crispy baby oysters in Taiwanese style. Photo: Xiaomei Chen
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I’m happy to say it’s the best of both. It’s an elegant, quiet and discreet space with a menu of both classic and inventive dishes, that were – with one exception – very well done.

The manager who took our order was helpful and steered us away from dishes he thought weren’t up to scratch.

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We ordered several dishes from the snack section of the menu. Deep-fried crispy baby oysters Taiwanese style (HK$68) were delicious – a plate piled high with small juicy oysters that had a thin crust.

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