Bar review: Porterhouse in Lan Kwai Fong – a good spot for carnivores who like cocktails

This steakhouse has a well-stocked bar, decent American-style cocktails and a good selection of premium spirits. Perfect for meat eaters who want to enjoy a few cocktails with their dinner

Hong Kong bar reviews

Natasha Rogai

Published: 6:02pm, 24 Jan 2018

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The vibe: Porterhouse is a steak restaurant and bar that takes its name from America’s porterhouse steak. It’s a big place, with a striking sculpted metallic ceiling and a large, promisingly well-stocked bar near the entrance.

Interior of Porterhouse. Photo: Edward Wong

Muted colours and soft lighting are designed to give a more intimate feel to the somewhat cavernous space. The service, like the ambience, is professional if a little impersonal.

The drinks: in keeping with the concept, house cocktails are based on American classics. One of the stand-outs was the Porterhouse Negroni (HK$90, Bombay Sapphire, Vya red vermouth, Campari, grapefruit bitters), a deliciously bitter, complex version of the drink with the grapefruit notes adding a distinctive touch.

Spiced Old Fashioned. Photo: Edward Wong

The Spiced Old Fashioned (HK$120, Kentucky Deluxe Bourbon, sherry, Noilly Prat, orange bitters, citrus peel, cloves and cinnamon stick) was blissfully smooth and delicately spicy.

The Calamansi Rita (HK$100, Manille Liqueur de Calamansi, Camino Tequila, fresh lime) was a pleasant take on the margarita with the calamansi coming through nicely.

The only disappointment was the Yuzu Drop (HK$90, Bacardi Black Rum, Yuzu-Shu liqueur, lime, lemongrass) which had a disagreeably medicinal aftertaste.

Signatures also include a list of martinis and with a gin and tonic selection featuring an impressive range of premium gins, priced from HK$90 to HK$180.

The verdict: whether Hong Kong really needs yet another high-end steak house is debatable – if you’re a carnivore in the mood to splurge on premium meat, the drinks are certainly good quality; if the drinks are your focus the area has other options.

Porterhouse, 7/F, California Tower, 30-32 D’Aguilar Street, Lan Kwai Fong, tel: 2522 6366.

Open: 5pm-11.30pm (Friday and Saturday until 1.30am)

While you’re in the area:

Bar review: IQ Bar, Lan Kwai Fong – a real find for the discerning drinker

Bar review: Charcoal, Lan Kwai Fong – room for improvement

Bar review: Mine, Lan Kwai Fong – strong on concept, weak on spirits

This article appeared in the South China Morning Post print edition as: Top spot for carnivores hooked on the classics

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