New & noted: Yakimon in Central – Japanese restaurant wows away from the grill

The restaurants in the building at 8 Lyndhurst Terrace in Central seem to change quite frequently. Yakimon, on the third floor, occupies a space that previously housed an Italian restaurant, and before that, a yakiniku restaurant. Yakimon’s speciality is grilled dishes, although they weren’t necessarily our favourites.

From the list of daily specials, what was listed as chicken kidney (HK$38 per skewer) was actually the giblet. It had been trimmed well, so the chewier pieces were removed, and the meat was moist and crunchy. Chicken liver with sauce (HK$38/skewer) was not the best version we’ve tasted; the organ meat was slightly overcooked. Chicken skin with salt (HK$35/skewer) was crunchy and addictive.

Japanese eel kabayaki (HK$178) wasn’t as fatty as other eel that we’ve tasted but the tare sauce was appropriately lighter, and the dish had a good amount of char.

Thick-cut ox tongue steak (HK$98), available in limited quantities, was slightly pink inside; the meat was succulent and tender, and the crisp garlic on top added flavour and texture.

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The ‘impromptu smoked mentaiko’ (HK$138) wasn’t at all impromptu: our friendly waitress warned us to get our cameras ready as she served it. The cod roe came covered with a glass cup, which the waitress lifted away to reveal a puff of smoke. It came with what she called potato pancakes, which, with their oily, slightly chewy texture, somewhat resembled pan-fried neen goh served at Chinese New Year. It was an interesting combination but seemed a bit pricey.