Fumi, Lan Kwai Fong restaurant review: uneven Japanese food and service make for an ordinary night out
Oddly priced dishes that were expensive for the portion size and quality, mixed with some slip-ups from the servers, resulted in an average experience, although the Miyazaki beef with Kyoto tofu was a savoury treat
The restaurant space that is now Fumi looks just as we remember from when it was Ore-no Kappou, which was supposed to be an affordable high-end izakaya (although actually, it was quite expensive). As you enter the large restaurant, there’s a long area with counter seating in front of the open kitchen to the right.
We weren’t in the mood for one of the kaiseki sets, which range from HK$688 to HK$1,280 per person, so we ordered à la carte. Some of the dishes are very oddly priced.
The tomato salad with perilla dressing was HK$158, which is very expensive for the portion size and quality; the peeled tomato wasn’t particularly flavourful. Fresh soy milk skin and sea urchin (HK$168) was also a small portion, but at least they were generous with the uni, and the soy milk skin was delicate.
Tempura had a light, slightly oily batter. We liked the maitake mushroom (HK$38) better than the sweet potato (HK$48) which was sliced too thick, and starchy rather than sweet.
Grilled Kochi Shimanto River Eel with sweet soy sauce (HK$438) was fatty and soft, although it could have used a little more time on the grill.
Our favourite savoury dish was the Miyazaki beef with Kyoto tofu (HK$238) which had tender, thin slices of meat along with toothsome squares of bean curd and sliced leeks in a light broth.
The different stations of the kitchen didn’t seem to be communicating because the Hokkaido queen crab rice dish (HK$358) – which should have been served last – came at the same time as the hotpot. We sent it back and they served it after we’d eaten the beef and tofu.
I don’t know if it was the same pot, or if they cooked another one – I suspect it was the former, because the dish was supposed to take 45 minutes to cook.
The crab was sweet enough but the rice was sticky and gluey. Again, it seemed expensive for the portion and quality.
Some of the servers could be trained better. One of them came to our table at least twice, trying to put down dishes that weren’t ours (on one occasion, she also tried to serve it to the couple next to us, before getting it to the correct table on her third attempt).
She also walked by our table with something that we had ordered, and tried to serve it to another table.
Fumi, 6/F California Tower, 30-32 D’Aguilar Street, Lan Kwai Fong, tel: 2328 3302. About HK$700 without drinks or the service charge
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