Food and Drinks

New restaurants in Tai Hang: delicious house-made pasta at Dough Kitchen

Despite struggling to find the restaurant, the food was worth the trouble, with the sauté squid delicious, the Fukuoka chicken tagliatelle with creamy broth enjoyable, and the sea urchin pasta best of all

PUBLISHED : Wednesday, 28 March, 2018, 12:30pm
UPDATED : Thursday, 29 March, 2018, 9:40pm

My guests and I worked up an appetite wandering up and down Brown Street looking for Dough Kitchen. The entrance is actually around the corner on Sun Chun Street, very near the Plumcot Bakery (where we picked up dessert for later, because the only one offered by Dough Kitchen is tiramisu).

Dough Kitchen is a small space, and it was busy on the evening we went. They specialise in house-made pasta, and that is mostly what we ordered, along with a few other dishes to share.

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Fresh burrata with arugula and lemon olive oil (HK$138) had very good cheese, but there was quite a lot of raw minced garlic that overwhelmed the sweetness of the accompanying tomatoes. Sauté squid (HK$118) – barely cooked and very tender – was a generous portion.

Dough garden salad, “seasonal pick by the chef” (HK$138) was hearty and satisfying – it would have made a good main course for lunch. The raw spinach leaves were almost covered with the other ingredients: grilled tomatoes, asparagus and kabocha, as well as sweet, peeled figs.

We liked all of the fresh pasta dishes. Pappardelle with stewed wagyu cheek (HK$228) had a light but richly flavoured sauce and tender meat. We ordered the Fukuoka chicken tagliatelle with creamy broth (HK$168) because it sounded interesting. To our surprise, it was very enjoyable: the chicken thigh was toothsome and the sauce not overly thick.

My favourite dish was the sea urchin pasta (HK$208). The generous amount of uni thickly coated the strands of pasta, and the sea urchin flavour wasn’t diluted by too many extraneous ingredients.

Dough Kitchen, 21B Brown St, Tai Hang, tel: 2688 7008. About HK$290 without drinks or the service charge

While you’re in the area:

Restaurant review: Izakaya Satoi in Tai Hang – Japanese skewers

Restaurant review: Kakuuchi, Tai Hang – good-value casual Japanese fare

Restaurant review: Second Draft, Tai Hang – inspired dishes paired with beer