New Hong Kong restaurants: stylish 10 Shanghai serves light and delicious fare

And we knew we would like the food from our first bite of the crunchy, deeply-flavoured pickled radishes that we nibbled on as we looked at the menu; they should consider selling these.

Shanghainese food can be heavy, but because one of my guests was feeling under the weather, we ordered some of the lighter dishes. Signature steamed xiao long bao (HK$65 for five) had thin, resilient skins that didn’t break when we picked up the dumplings by the topknot. There was lots of rich soup inside, and a delicately textured meatball.

Marinated baby geoduck with spicy vinaigrette (HK$98) had a mild, tangy sauce coating the fresh geoduck. Honey-glazed crispy eel (HK$98) was crunchy, with a light, not too-sticky glaze. Jiangsu-style smoked fish (HK$88), served warm, was succulent, with a thin, crisp coating.

Jiangsu river shrimp were available in several styles, and we ordered them with honey peas and Jinhua ham (HK$228). The shrimps were small and tender, the tiny honey peas were sweet, and the small pieces of ham added a salty bite.