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Hong Kong restaurant reviews

New restaurants in Hong Kong: Steak on Elgin in SoHo – special aged beef and a boozy trifle

With dry-aged, grass-fed British beef, cave-aged Irish salt moss beef and Korean 1++ Hanwoo on the menu, steak fans should be in heaven. The side dishes are delicious, the bread is amazing and there’s even a boozy trifle

PUBLISHED : Wednesday, 11 April, 2018, 12:49pm
UPDATED : Thursday, 12 April, 2018, 5:04pm

One guess at what dishes Steak on Elgin serves, and where it’s located. The menu at the new restaurant is as straightforward as its name; when we went a few weeks ago, during its soft opening phase, there were just five appetisers, five cuts of beef, one non-beef main (Iberico pork shoulder), a few sides and three desserts, including a cheese selection.

The menu has expanded slightly since then; they are even offering a fish main course.

The beef selection is interesting: they specialise in UK native-breed dry-aged 100 per cent grass-fed beef, Kettyle Irish salt moss cave-aged beef and one Hanwoo (“Korean beef”) 1++ fillet mignon.

The manager warned us that because the British and Irish beef was grass-fed, the steaks would be a little chewier than corn-fed, and said that if we wanted tenderness we should try the Korean beef.

My guest and I chose the UK dry-aged rib-eye (HK$595) and Irish sirloin (HK$695), and, expecting the steaks to be too large for us to have space for appetisers, ate the delicious, crusty bread and Bordier seaweed butter while we waited for them to cook.

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Perhaps because of the manager’s warning, we found both cuts of beef to be more tender than we expected. We tasted hints of rosemary in the beef (the cuts had been “finished” with butter and the herb).

The sirloin – cooked just slightly under my guest’s requested medium – was the beefier-tasting of the two, with denser, firmer flesh. My rib-eye – cooked to perfect medium-rare – was the winner of the night, with the different parts of the cut (the cap and the eye) giving different textures.

The steaks came with three sauces: Béarnaise, au jus and peppercorn, but the meat was flavourful enough that it didn’t need anything else.

The meat comes unadorned (except for a sprinkling of parsley), so we were happy we’d ordered side dishes (HK$78 each). Triple-cooked fries were crusty and well seasoned, and instead of using the accompanying aioli, we dipped them into the Béarnaise meant for the steaks. Sauté fresh mushrooms made us feel slightly less guilty about our meat-heavy meal.

For dessert, we had Grandma’s boozy trifle with jelly (HK$128). It’s not a dessert that I appreciate, so I left almost all of it to my guest, who spooned it up happily.

The restaurant space previously housed Tate Dining (which moved to Hollywood Road). It’s an elegant, sleek space that seats about 25 – mostly along one long wall (although there’s a round table near the entrance), and displaying much of the wine selection (reported to be more than 350 bottles).

Steak on Elgin, 59 Elgin Street, SoHo, tel: 2627 0528. About HK$800 without drinks or the service charge. The restaurant is open for dinner only.

While you’re in the area

Restaurant review: Gough’s on Gough, Central – good food with charming service and decor

Restaurant review: Tempura Taki, Central – not enough tempura on pricier menu set, for all its tasty dishes

Restaurant review: Mugung Hanwoo Beef Specialist, Central – good for beef lovers, but other dishes are disappointing