New Japanese restaurants in Hong Kong – Sushi Saito lives up to expectations with dazzling dishes
It’s pricey and if you want to book you’ll need to be introduced by someone who’s visited before, but once you’re in it’s a meal you won’t forget – from the delicate and buttery Nagasaki sea perch to the luxurious golden eye snapper
A few words of advice about Sushi Saito in the Four Seasons, the Hong Kong branch of a Tokyo-based restaurant, whose opening late last month had a lot of sushi lovers panting with anticipation.
Be prepared to pay a non-refundable deposit and be on time – because if you’re not, they’ll start without you. Oh, and here’s something essential: as with the original in Tokyo, if you are a new customer and want to book, you’ll need to be introduced by someone who’s visited before.
My guest and I arrived with time to spare for our booking (there are two seatings each night, at 6pm and 8.30pm) and the meal started bang on time as chef Ikuya Kobayashi started serving the first of six otsumami (appetisers).
The highlights were Hokkaido kegani (horsehair crab), served out of the shell with a mild vinegar sauce, which was refreshing and palate-whetting. Pregnant yari ika (spear squid) is a briefly seasonal speciality, and had a creamy texture (from the eggs inside) and sweet flavour.
Hokkaido ankimo (monkfish liver), dusted with grated yuzu zest, was smooth and rich. But our favourite was the Nagasaki nodoguro – the grilled blackthroat sea perch was so soft, delicate and buttery that we needed the two types of daikon (radish) – fresh grated and takuan [pickled]) – served with it to refresh our palates between bites.
There was only one piece that I disliked: Kagoshima sumi ika which, strangely, I found too salty (and I usually like squid).
Everything else was delicious – my notes from the meal are full of explanation points, “soooooo good” and thrice underlined OMGs (I’ll spare you those). The shari (rice) is delicately pressed together (although it holds its shape) and is vinegared just enough so it complements the neta (toppings).
Warm anago (saltwater eel) was the last piece of nigiri served before the futomaki (large roll) which held anago, prawn, pickled gourd, cucumber and egg. A silky, delicate tamagoyaki (rolled omelette), complex in flavour, ended the meal on a not-too-sweet note.
Sushi Saito, 45/F Four Seasons, 8 Finance Street, Central. For information look on the website, globallink.com.hk. Dinner: HK$3,280 without drinks or the service charge. Lunch: HK$1,480 without drinks or the service charge.