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Hong Kong restaurant reviews

New restaurants in Wan Chai: Sueño – a Spanish menu so enticing we wanted to order more

Wan Chai is home to a pile of restaurants that seem to prioritise booze over food, but Sueño is breaking the mould, putting the focus back on delicious dishes served in a welcoming environment

PUBLISHED : Friday, 27 April, 2018, 12:33pm
UPDATED : Friday, 27 April, 2018, 12:33pm

This restaurant review almost didn’t happen because I made the mistake of judging a venue by its interior.

Actually, there wasn’t anything wrong with the interior of Sueño, but I was so worried that it would be just another Wan Chai restaurant/bar where the drinks were more important than the food, that I considered going someplace else.

I really should have just looked at the menu, which, when my guest and I eventually sat down, sounded so enticing we wished we could order more. The waitresses were friendly and welcoming. They brought us tap water without being asked, and let us move tables so we weren’t in the direct line of the air conditioner.

My first bite of grilled octopus (HK$118) seemed bland because I tasted it on its own. In the next bite, I made sure to eat the tender slow-cooked octopus with the other ingredients, which included red bell peppers, mashed potato, and best of all, a creamy ink mayonnaise that brought all the other flavours together.

Golden mini fish and chips (HK$128) was a new interpretation of a classic. The small fresh anchovies had been coated in a light batter and fried before being served with crisp chips – so far, so ordinary. But the addition of a salted egg yolk seasoning was clever and delicious, adding a mild salty richness.

We weren’t in the mood for paella, so the waitress suggested the oxtail soup with mixed baby vegetables (HK$148). It was warm and comforting with a deep flavour, and tender meat in soupy rice.

The 12-hour, slow-cooked suckling pig (HK$248) took so long to come we thought they’d forgotten about it. It was worth the wait, though. The meat was so moist and soft I could pull it apart with a fork. The skin was thin and delicately crisp, and the sweet-tart flavours of caramelised pineapple balanced the richness of the meat.

Sueño,137 Queen’s Road East, Wan Chai, tel: 5993 5443.

About HK$320 without drinks or the service charge.

While you’re in the area:

New restaurant in Wan Chai: Francis serves Middle Eastern food with charm and enthusiasm

Restaurant review: Osteria Marzia in Wan Chai – Italian seafood dishes impress with freshness and flavour

Restaurant review: Kaiseki Den by Saotome in Wan Chai – so good we didn’t want it to end