New restaurants in Hong Kong: Brut, Sai Ying Pun – big tapas-inspired flavours in a small venue with a small menu
It may be hard to get a booking at this popular, cosy neighbourhood restaurant, but it’s well worth the effort. The octopus and sardines were stand-outs, and it has a relaxed vibe
It took several attempts before I was able to eat at Brut. I cancelled one booking within 10 minutes of making it to accommodate a picky guest; when I called again a week or so later, I was told the only seats available were at 9.30pm. I finally was successful on the third try.
Interior of Brut. Photo: Edmond So
Within 45 minutes after we sat down, the place was packed. It’s not hard to see why – service is friendly and the restaurant, which has a good neighbourhood vibe, is small and casual, with diners sitting on high stools at long shared tables. The dishes are listed on a one-page menu that you hang from a hook on the wall once you’ve finished looking at it.
Baby buns of the day (HK$28 each) had a type of Chinese-style pulled pork that was tender and juicy, in a soft bun.
White anchovies with chimichurri and grilled leeks. Photo: Edmond So
White anchovies with chimichurri and grilled leeks (HK$78) had great flavours, with potatoes tempering the acidity of the pickled anchovies and warmth added by the leeks. Another fishy dish – sardines on toast with tomato concasse (HK$68) was less interesting – it was like something you’d make at home for a quick bite.
Octopus with roasted chickpeas and cured cucumber at Brut. Photo: Edmond So
We were glad we’d ordered the octopus with roasted chickpeas and cured cucumber (HK$128). The tender octopus was cooked perfectly, and went deliciously with the rough textured chickpea purée, with batons of cucumber and slices of pickled fennel adding crunch.
Iberico secreto with grilled leeks and creme de piquillos. Photo: Edmond So
Iberico secreto (HK$228) came thinly sliced and fanned out to show the meat, parts of which were cooked rare (too rare for one guest; fine for me). The pork was toothsome, meaty and moist and the creme de piquillos added a smoky flavour. Roquefort mac and cheese (HK$88) was creamy and pungent, but should have been served hotter.
Brut, 1 Second Street, Sai Ying Pun, tel: 3460 5863. About HK$220 without the drinks or the service charge.
