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Hong Kong restaurant reviews

Glow Oyster Bar in Central review: simple, well cooked food at reasonable prices exceeds expectations

The glow theme may be overdone, but the food was perfectly cooked with great flavours and textures. Try the Spanish wild king prawn with avocado, or the Yamato spare rib with roasted potatoes

PUBLISHED : Thursday, 21 June, 2018, 12:46pm
UPDATED : Thursday, 21 June, 2018, 5:10pm

Sometimes it’s the places you least expect where you find the best meals.

We didn’t have high expectations of Glow, although our prejudice was mostly because of the decor. They took the “glow” theme a bit too far – cheap-looking glowing plastic cubes outside the restaurant, glowing globes on each table, and even a bill holder that lit up.

But we looked past it and saw that the bare bones were good: the staff were really friendly, there was a proper oyster bar displaying the selection on piles of ice. The dishes we ordered were, for the most part, simple, well cooked and not overpriced.

The meal started on a bad note with the grilled ox tongue (HK$88). We were actually served too much: four large rectangular pieces that were overcooked and dense. But the entire meal picked up after that.

Crab cakes (HK$118) had a little too much potato filler, but they were light and nicely textured, and went deliciously with the roasted corn salsa.

Spanish wild king prawn with avocado (HK$168) was excellent because the ingredients were so good. The avocado was ripe (that should go without saying but I’ve been served my share of hard, flavourless avocado) and the prawn – served raw – was large, and had sweet meat and a fantastic head that was full of rich fat.

Spaghetti with fresh and dried shrimps in tomato sauce (HK$168) was very nice. The fresh prawns had a crisp texture, although not that much flavour. The sauce, with plenty of umami from the tomatoes and dried shrimp, coated the strands of al dente pasta.

Yamato spare rib with roasted potatoes (HK$188) had tender meat and a sauce that wasn’t too sickly sweet. Peppery arugula and roasted cherry tomatoes balanced the richness of the meat.

Glow – Oyster Bar & Grill, 9 Wo On Lane, Central, tel: 2503 3998.

About HK$360 per person without drinks or the service charge.

While you’re in the area:

Shake Shake in Central review: are the burgers really worth the wait?

New and noted: French meets Japanese in style at Arbor in Central

New in Hong Kong: Écriture in Central – creative, delicious and filling