New restaurant in Hong Kong: Trattoria del Pescatore - Italian menu celebrates seafood - don’t expect red meat or vegetarian options
Italian restaurant in Sheung Wan champions seafood in dishes such as raw Sicilian red prawns, whitebait fritters and sea bass in tomato and clam broth. Be sure to end your meal with tiramisu – you won’t be disappointed
Don’t come to Trattoria del Pescatore if you’re in the mood for steak.
As the name suggests, it’s a seafood restaurant, but not everyone is so perceptive. I’ve had friends who have complained about the lack of fish options at traditional entrecôte restaurants in France, so I’m sure there’s going to be someone who demands a steak in a seafood establishment. (Vegetarians would have a hard time here, too; they offer just a few dishes and none seem to be main courses.)
The restaurant – an import from Milan – is on a quiet block in Sheung Wan, and is tastefully (and expensively) decorated. While there were plenty of empty tables, the hostess first offered us seats right next to other diners, then near the entrance, but we eventually got her to seat us in a quiet area.
The menu categories include raw bar, antipasti and primi, with main course dishes available for sharing or for individuals. Raw Sicilian red prawns (HK$280) – a generous serving of four – were not the largest I’ve had and the meat didn’t have much flavour, but the heads were gooey and sweet. My guest’s whitebait fritters (HK$200) were fresh and clean tasting, although they could have used a little more seasoning.
My guest loved his main course of sea bass in tomato and clam broth (HK$280). The fish was not overcooked, there were plenty of clams, and as he spooned up the delicious broth, he could only complain there was not enough of it.
Spaghetti with mixed seafood cooked in tin foil (HK$350) was awkward to eat because the foil got in the way, although it did a good job of intensifying the seafood flavour. The spaghetti was al dente and there was a good assortment of seafood: mussels, clams, a prawn, squid (a little overcooked) and a langoustine (the tail was slightly mushy).
I rarely order tiramisu because it’s so predictable, but I enjoyed this version, which had smooth cream, coffee-soaked ladyfingers, and the unexpected (and delicious) addition of crushed amaretti biscuits, which added crunch and a pleasant bitter almond flavour.
Trattoria del Pescatore, Tower 125, 11 Po Yan Street, Sheung Wan, tel: 2559 3339. About HK$620 per person without drinks or the service charge.
While you’re in the area: