Barcelona food tour: experience authentic Catalan cuisine as you eat your way through charming foodie neighbourhood
Did you know Spaniards eat five meals a day? Next time you’re in Barcelona, live like a Catalan and stroll around the charming Gracia neighbourhood tasting delights such as Iberian ham, churros and meatballs
“Every meal is an excuse to meet [friends],” quips Paulina Grzeszczyk, my bubbly food guide in Barcelona. I am surprised since my understanding of socialising in the West is quite different; social meals require forward planning with friends and family, and are therefore not a daily activity.
I had arrived a day before in Antoni Gaudí’s city and had registered for a food tour through Devour Tours (devourtours.com). My second surprise is when Grzeszczyk declares: “I am glad you chose this tour over the Barcelona food tour”. I am in Gracia, a neighbourhood of Barcelona, so wasn’t I technically part of the Barcelona food tour?
Seeing my confusion, Grzeszczyk explains that in the 19th century, the city quarter surrounding the Gothic area got crowded and soon swallowed the neighbouring villages like Gracia. The locals proudly claim they are from Gracia and not Barcelona.
“Barcelona is cosmopolitan, and today it is difficult to find authentic Catalan food in the city. Gracia has its own charm and holds the legitimacy of Catalan traditions and customs strong,” Grzeszczyk explains. Catalonia is one of the 17 autonomous regions in Spain, each with a distinct cultural identity and traditions.
Grzeszczyk agrees to take me to authentic establishments and some family-run places. As we walk through the streets of Gracia, I can smell the faint citrus aroma of oranges. The harvest of the famed Spanish oranges has just finished, but the fruit is still found hanging on a few trees.
Our first stop is at La Nena, which looks like a regular coffee shop selling a range of pastries, cakes and snacks. An old man sits reading his newspaper while sipping his coffee. I am in for a surprise as we move to the back area that is a whirlwind of activity. Children sit with their parents drinking chocolate, playing board games and reading books.