New restaurants in Hong Kong: great British dishes, patchy service at Statement in Central
- Statement serves modern British cuisine, and apart from a few errors, the food is delicious
- The newly opened restaurant needs to work on its service
Overheard at Statement, the modern British restaurant that was opened recently by the Aqua Group in the Tai Kwun complex in Central: a man expressing surprise at how British cuisine has changed, and that it’s no longer stodgy and dull. We wondered where he’s been for the past 20 years, because British cuisine hasn’t been like that for quite a while (although it can be, if you like that sort of thing).
Statement is airy, attractive and elegant.
Service was a bit slow – it took quite a while for someone to come over and take our order, even though we had closed our menus to indicate that we were ready, and later on, although we put our forks and knives in the correct position to show we were finished with our dishes, the staff asked us each time if we were done. Most of the time they placed the food on the table without saying a word.
There’s a seven-course tasting menu for HK$928 per person, but we ordered à la carte from the brief list of six starters and six mains, plus a few sides. The starters sounded more interesting than the mains, so we ordered three and just one main.
Roasted veal bone marrow with leek and potato purée and oscietra caviar (HK$228) was just fantastic. The marrow, taken out of the bone, came as fat, succulent seared pieces that melted in the mouth. The potato purée was silky, and the caviar gave salty notes to the dish.
Red prawn tartare cigar (HK$218) was marred by the not too fresh sea urchin and salmon roe. The prawn tartare itself was sweet and fresh, and was rolled in a thin, clear jelly sheet that tasted of the prawn juices.
An elegantly presented home-cured wild Cornish mackerel (HK$178) was soft and moist, but the accompanying carrot pickle had been pickled too much that it obliterated the taste of carrot, which was mushy.
Slow-cooked Gressingham duck with plum sauce and salt-baked carrot (HK$298) was a thick, boneless piece that, when we sliced into it, was a nice medium-rare. There was a bit of sinew, but for the most part, the meat was tender and the skin was crisp. It was served with a fried ball of what tasted like blood sausage, which we enjoyed. A side dish of baby new potatoes with red onion and rosemary (HK$68) was a delicious accompaniment.
We had room for only one dessert, and it was excellent – after the bone marrow, it was our second favourite dish of the night. We worried that the sticky toffee pudding with butterscotch sauce and clotted cream (HK$118) would be heavy, but it was the lightest sticky toffee pudding we’ve tasted.
Statement, 1/F Block 1, Tai Kwun, 10 Hollywood Road, Central, tel: 2848 3000.
About HK$550 per person without drinks or the service charge.
While you’re in the area