It is a typically hot summer morning on the east side of Austin. Even in more temperate conditions, mornings tend to be quiet in the Texas state capital. Still, like most Saturdays, almost 300 people have gathered in front of a low-slung building on 11th Street, lining up for two hours before the business even opens in the hope of tasting one of America’s great cultural treasures: real Texas barbecue. According to Texas Monthly magazine, Franklin Barbecue serves “the best barbecue in the known universe”, an accolade that the restaurant has plastered on its webpage. The restaurant is the brainchild of Aaron Franklin, the most famous and arguably best pit master in the United States. He got his start like most barbecue greats: hosting cookouts in his backyard, which he did with his wife Stacy. Their meat was so popular that they decided to open a roadside trailer in 2009, and its popularity rapidly necessitated a larger, more permanent space. Aside from his namesake, Franklin has also opened Loro, an Asian smokehouse in town, and spearheads The Hot Luck Fest, a local food and music festival. He has also produced a popular barbecue cookbook and made a much loved television show, BBQ with Franklin . Barbecue in the US is a fiercely regional, fractious and contentious topic of conversation – almost more so than religion and politics. But in Texas’ beef-obsessed barbecue tradition it is brisket that reigns supreme, and Franklin Barbecue serves up what is widely regarded as the very best. That said, a great number of those singing Franklin’s praises have never even tasted its fare. Of the hundreds of people who get up early on a Saturday for a taste, about half will not make it through the door. Franklin’s cooking process is long and slow, and stocks are limited, so it’s not unusual for it to run out of food within a few hours of opening time. Although the lucky ones will leave with bellies full of brisket, ribs, sausages and smoked turkey, it does not mean those who leave hungry also leave disappointed. For Texans, especially, the line at Franklin has become a destination in itself. Barbecue lovers bring chairs, and coolers full of beer and snacks, looking forward to a day spent meeting fellow aficionados from all over the world, talking barbecue, and having a buzz. When the day is over, new friendships will have been made, recipes swapped and booze shared. “It’s like a tailgate without the football,” says Miki Parra, Franklin’s general manager. “We open at 11am and there are days we’ll have 400 people in line by 9am. “If you know you don’t like waiting, don’t even attempt it. But if you’re into the tailgate atmosphere, bring some chairs, bring a cooler and hang out. You meet people from all over the world in line. Barbecue pork rib recipes: learn the Chinese and Korean ways to make them “People meet new friends, they’ll sit together at a table and then move on to a bar after. I’ve seen people meet and end up getting married from this line.” On a recent Wednesday, the line is unusually short, with only about 100 people waiting when the doors open. It looks like everyone will eat. The short queue has drawn in locals who know an opportunity when they see it. People like Jim, a construction industry worker born and raised in Austin. He has been to Franklin three times and did not plan to visit today until he happened to be driving by. “The line’s good today,” he says, clearly pleased with his luck. “That’s why I stopped.” The last time he managed to taste the “best brisket in town” and had to wait almost three hours, but it was memorable. “The line was a party. You get to know different people. People come from all over so it’s good to talk to different people, find out where they’re from, what brings them here,” Jim says. Three great reasons to fire up the barbecue Today is no different. Behind Jim is Joyce, an exchange student from Honduras who had watched the BBQ with Franklin television show. She has been in this line more times than she can remember but never tasted the food. “Today will be my first time,” she says, looking longingly at the front door only a dozen people away. “All the other times there was too big of a line.” Also waiting are Blake and Bonnie, a couple from Alaska. They represent common category of visitors to Franklin: the pilgrim, the barbecue fanatic. “I got an offset rig, and I’ll barbecue up there in Alaska when it’s 10 [degrees] below,” Blake says. He’s looking forward to having some barbecue far away from the ice and snow. “You can see why barbecue is way better where it’s warm. Holding those temperatures where it’s that cold – it’s crazy.” This is Blake and Bonnie’s second visit to Franklin. “They sold out,” says Bonnie, recalling their first time. Like everyone else, they don’t have hard feelings about missing out last time. Don’t ruin your summer barbecue – avoid these food safety mistakes Blake says he has read Franklin’s book – Franklin Barbecue: A Meat-Smoking Manifesto – three times and he knows exactly what he is going to order: “I like briskets and ribs. And I like fatty brisket. I’m gonna request that.” As the crowd crack beers and chat, eyes keep darting to the man at the front of the line. He must feel their stares, but he does not let it show. Today that lucky gentleman is Casey Jones, a scruffy Texan in a dusty denim jacket. He seems like the quiet type, sipping beer like everyone else, a smile on his face, settling into that space between hungover and freshly tipsy. Barbecued meat recipes: minced lamb kebabs, barbecued quail, and chicken wings with green curry This is his second time in line: “The first time I think we came on a Saturday. I think I got in line at nine,” he recalls. “By the time I got up here it was 1pm. It was all right, I just hung out. I just read a book and drank beer.” One of the first-timers behind him overhears and interrupts to ask how the barbecue was. Jones just smiles. He knows how lucky he is. “It’s fantastic,” he says to the first-timer. “There’s a reason people wait in line.”