US$12 back-alley pho that’s big enough for two at Saigon Pho in North Point, Hong Kong
- The generous serving of speciality pho at Saigon Pho comes with six kinds of beef toppings. The cooked beef brisket was tender, and the broth light
- A banh mi sandwich was substantial enough to make a summer meal on its own
Pho, a dish from northern Vietnam of rice noodles in soup (usually beef, although it can also be chicken), is the country’s best known food export. Saigon Pho, a tiny restaurant in an alley in Hong Kong’s North Point neighbourhood, serves the classic dish along with other Vietnamese specialities.
First we chose an assorted platter (HK$109/US$14) so that we could try four different snacks: spring rolls, chicken wings, shrimp cakes and steamed pancake rolls.
We liked the last of these best; the skin of the steamed pancake rolls was thin and smooth, while the minced pork and other ingredients inside were juicy. Fried scallion and garlic added fragrance, flavour and texture.
The chewy shrimp cakes had a crunchy coating, while the chicken wings were soft and slightly sweet. The skin of the spring rolls was crunchy, too, but a little oily.
We next ordered the speciality pho (HK$97/US$12), which graces the cover of the restaurant’s menu. The portion was so big it was enough for two people. As well as vegetables such as radish, onions and bean sprouts, and herbs, the extra-large bowl had six toppings, including thinly sliced raw beef, cooked beef brisket, beef ball, beef omasum and honeycomb tripe.