Try everything on the menu at meat-centric Mr Brown in Wan Chai, and bring your friends
- From the half duck to the Iberico pork muffin, carnivores are in for a treat
- It’s best to go in a group to give you the chance to sample all the dishes
The menu at Mr Brown, a meat-centric restaurant in Hong Kong’s Wan Chai district, is brief – 12 starters, five mains, a few side dishes and three desserts. But bring at least three friends, because you’ll want to try just about everything.
The one dish I wasn’t excited about trying was the Iberico pork muffin (HK$70 each) because I thought it was an American-style muffin – the thing you eat for breakfast if there’s nothing better on offer. But a friend insisted on ordering it, and we were all happy he did. It turned out to be English-type muffins, split in half and filled with pork, cabbage, aioli and mustard. It was fantastic – messy to eat, but full of rich flavours. My only wish is that it was larger.
Chicken liver pâté (HK$80) was another delicious dish: a generous smear of the smooth, rich but light paste. We spread it on the thick polenta chips (only three, although we were four diners), then added a dab of the sweet, chunky blood orange marmalade.
Empanadas (HK$100 for two) were plump, with a moist, flavourful beefy filling.
Pork ribs with black garlic and apple (HK$140 for four) were tender and the glaze was nice, but they could have used a little more salt.
Grilled aubergine with miso tahini and chilli (HK$90) was a light contrast to the meaty starters.
When reading the menu, I immediately focused on the 12 hours smoked brisket (HK$210), but it was my least favourite dish. The meat was peppery, moist and tender, but was cut very thin – hot brisket tastes better in more substantial slices.
We all loved the half duck (HK$250). The meat, juicy and deeply flavoured, was served with thinly sliced golden beets, pomegranate seeds and a thin sauce that we ignored because the duck was so good on its own.
For dessert, the caramel slice (HK$80) – almost like a semifreddo – was light and cool, while the smoked apple cigars with bourbon and vanilla cream (HK$80) were shatteringly crisp and not oily.
Mr Brown, Pinnacle Building, 9 Ship Street, Wan Chai, tel: 3101 1081. About HK$320 per person without drinks or the service charge.
While you’re in the area
Satisfying French and Cantonese cuisine at Roots in Wan Chai
Great modern Indian dishes at Daarukhana in Wan Chai
