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Steamed xiaolongbao with lobster bisque from Nove Chinese Kitchen in Central. Photo: Xiaomei Chen

Nove in Central: outstanding dim sum and Chiu Chow food by Umberto Bombana at reasonable prices

  • It was puzzling why this restaurant hideaway, which had a menu filled with delicious dishes, was not packed or fully booked weeks in advance
  • Fantastic steamed xiao long bao with lobster bisque, and succulent goose meat were just some of the highlights

Much to-do has been made by other food writers about the Umberto Bombana connection with Nove, the new Chinese restaurant in Hong Kong’s Central district.

Expecting it to be filled with fans of the Italian chef (most famous for his three-Michelin-star 8½ Otto e Mezzo), I was prepared for disappointment when I called and asked if it was possible to get a table for just a few days away.

To my surprise, the person answering the phone did not sneer at my presuming that I could eat there without having to plan a month in advance (it’s happened before) and instead, simply asked what time I wanted to come. My party of four was the only table for much of the night, apart from one other, which included Bombana’s son, Bartolomeo.

I’m puzzled about why this retro-Chinese hideaway isn’t packed, because everything we tried was delicious and prices were reasonable for the quality and the quiet setting.

The retro-Chinese interior of Nove in Central. Photo: Xiaomei Chen

The menu has two main sections – dim sum and Chiu Chow specialities – with all the dishes available throughout the day. Although the dim sum dishes are three per order, the friendly, accommodating manager increased the portion size to four, so everyone in our group could have one.

Steamed xiao long bao with lobster bisque (HK$42 for three) were just fantastic. The skins were very thin, but resilient enough to stay intact when we picked them up with chopsticks. The filling was flavourful, and there was plenty of the thin, hot bisque inside. It was served without the traditional accompaniment of dark vinegar – because it did not need any.

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Steamed egg white and crabmeat dumplings (HK$42) were excellent, with wrappers so thin we could see a hint of the filling inside.

The waiter recommended the siu mai (HK$42) which were meaty, with a touch of black truffle paste on top. He also recommended the pan-fried conpoy turnip cakes (HK$33) that were some of the best we’ve tasted, with hand-sliced pieces of the sweet, tender white radish and just enough starch to bind the ingredients together.

Baked barbecue pork buns in pineapple shape (HK$33) were light and puffy, but could have used a little more meat inside.

Meat combination plate – goose meat with pig intestines at Nove. Photo: Xiaomei Chen

The waiter also recommended the classic wantons (HK$69) which had a delicate filling. The big surprise was elm fungus, black fungus and assorted mushroom dumplings (HK$69) which were far more flavourful than I expected them to be.

The dishes came at a good, steady pace, and after the dim sum, the waiter started serving the Chiu Chow dishes. First up was goose intestines (HK$99), which were fresh and crunchy. We had a combination plate of goose meat and pig intestines (HK$189). The goose meat – both the breast and leg – was succulent, while the pig intestines were fatty and well-cleaned.

We also liked the pig trotters (HK$69) which had a good amount of tender cartilage and skin. All the lo sui (master sauce) meats came on a bed of thick slices of wonderfully delicate soft bean curd.

Another speciality – a cold dish of deboned threadfin fish (HK$189) – had pieces of fish that were fatty, moist and subtle.

Nove restaurant’s pig trotters. Photo: Xiaomei Chen
De-boned threadfin fish at Nove. Photo: Xiaomei Chen

We wanted rice, but could not decide between the version with spare ribs and preserved olives (HK$59) or the chicken and black truffle (HK$69), so the waiter offered to combine them. The metal dish was chockablock full of fragrant rice and meats – delicious.

For dessert, steamed longevity buns (HK$29) were supposed to have runny custard inside but they had been steamed a little too long, so the custard was firm. We liked the flavour, though. Double boiled milk pudding with mashed taro (HK$39 per serving) was hot, subtle and comforting.

Nove Chinese Kitchen, 9 Li Yuen Street East, Central, tel: 2180 6799. About HK$300 per person without drinks or the service charge.

Three other new restaurants in Central worth trying

Louise in Central: Julien Royer’s fabulous French fare

Modern bistro dishes hit the spot at Somm in Central

Fantastic Japanese fusion food from ex-Nobu chef in Central

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